It matters how nicely - or how badly - straplocks fit onto the strap. Pretty obvious, but when you're faced with the task of actually fitting them yourself, you have to get down to details.
What you get in the packet is two pairs of parts - one for each end of the strap. The parts that are attached to the body of the guitar are called the strap 'buttons', as you probably know. All electric guitars have buttons fitted and many acoustics have either two or just one at the bottom end of the instrument.
Each button is held onto the body by a screw that passes through its centre and tightens into the wood of the body.
The parts that fit to the strap are the locks - instead of just hooking the strap over standard buttons through the holes, the lock, (itself in two, threaded parts), screws together through the holes and will then lock into its own special button.
Now, this is all meant to be nice and easy. Firstly, you would expect them to fit through standard strap holes, but read this: Straplock Design.
Secondly, you would expect them to be able to cope with any strap thickness, within reason. Most custom straps - certainly mine - are of relatively heavyweight leather - about ⅛" thick or a little more. (Mine are from '6oz', '8oz' or '9oz' hides).
In practice, even the Fenders fall short of perfection here. On a brand-new strap, only a couple of turns are available for tightening, which, in my book, is a bit too close to the end of the thread. Why they decided that this was enough defeats me - they are not inconspicuous little devices and another sixteenth of an inch depth would have been neither here nor there. Anyway, a little tightening after a day or two when the leather has compressed seems to work.
(I realise that this needs some pictures.
I'll add some as soon as I get time.)
Comments, by the way, can be sent HERE.
Haven't set up a 'forum'-type section.
Not totally convinced that I want to - I'd have to maintain it and that drags me out of the workshop.
Maybe you'll convince me.
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